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February 2022 News From Fairway Green

With spring almost here, get Fairway Green’s tricks and tips for the best possible lawn experience this season.

Save 7% Until March 15

We’ve sent out an email for cutting 7% off your annual programs and some services! This is a great opportunity to save and is why it pays to have Fairway Green on your email’s “safe sender” list.

Please note: if your current service is recurring and does not have an end date, your services will automatically continue even if you do not take advantage of this special offer.

Pre-Emergent Crabgrass Control 101

Crabgrass will usually start to germinate in late March or early April (when temperatures for lawns don’t fit in either a warm-season grass or cool-season grass classification). However, it could be earlier this year due to the increase in current ground temperatures. Germination will occur when soil temperatures start reaching 55 degrees, for a depth of 3-4 inches, on bare spots with little desirable turf and in full sun.

It is always best to control crabgrass, when possible, before it germinates, matures and becomes difficult to manage. Fairway Green utilizes a three-part pre-emergent application process on cool season turf. This application starts to break down around mid-July, so fescue seeding can start around the end of August. Early crabgrass breakthrough, after pre-emergent applications, can be attributed to low mowing heights, thin areas in the lawn and aggressive edging along sidewalks and driveways. 

For even more info, be sure to check out our blog on dealing with and preventing crabgrass and moss.

Winter Lawns 101

Understanding Winter Weeds

Winter annual weeds can be prolific this time of year. These weeds germinate in the fall, grow through the winter months and reproduce in the spring. The most appropriate time to treat these weeds is now/when they are young and actively growing. They become difficult to control once they start to flower. 

Broadleaf Weeds

Broadleaf weed control could be difficult this spring due to many fescue lawns being thin and not completely tillered. Tiller simply means the fescue plant adds additional leaf blades, thickening the plant and increasing its ability to compete against broadleaf weeds. 

Research has shown that maintaining a mowing height of 3½” – 4” on fescue can reduces the amount, while also helping promote healthy turf. This is why we try to include post-emergent broadleaf weed control with most applications every year.  Even with this, though, broadleaf weeds will never stop developing in managed turf.  

Bluegrass

Poa annua (annual blugrass) and Poa trivialis (rough bluegrass) are some of the most difficult grassy weeds to control. 

Poa annua can be found in all turf types and dealing with it is extremely difficult. It can be identified by tan-colored seed heads and off-green leaf blades. Poa annua requires 2 applications of a special product in November, then again in December. Both must be completed roughly 30 days apart, and even this will only control 70% to 75% of the potential germination. Due to excessive product cost, applications are an addition to regular service, at the same application price per application. 

Poa trivialis (rough Bluegrass) is a perennial cool-season grass. It has a light-green color, stands out in most desired turf grass and can form a dense spreading mat in the spring, fall and winter. There are a few products that are showing some promise for dealing with it on fescue, but they’re still very much in the trial stages.

As we’re already outside the windows of preventive applications, the best control at this point is to maintain good quality turf and density. Please contact us through the customer portal or visit FairwayGreen.com to find out what services we can offer to help your specific lawn. 

How Does the Cold Damage My Warm Season Turf?

Warm season turf like bermuda, zoysia and especially centipede can sustain damage from the winter air and cold ground temperatures. While these grasses don’t innately combat these conditions, excellent breeding programs have given us varieties that are able to handle these conditions much better.

Conditions that increase the possibility for winter injury/damage are: 

  • Hard soil compaction from heavy traffic or natural conditions. 
  • Heavy concentrations of shade from trees, homes and more.
  • Insufficient soil drainage (standing water).
  • North-facing slopes.
  • Poor soil conditions that create insufficient root mass. 
  • Incorrect variety selection.
  • Poor practices throughout the year. 

Why Is My Fescue Looking Tan or Yellow?

During the winter months, fescue turf can experience desiccation of the leaf tissues (a yellow or brownish coloring of the leaf blades). This is often caused when the moisture in the grass blades freezes and ruptures the cells at the tip of the blades. However, there are a few turf diseases in the winter that could also be the cause. An increase in temperatures, along with the early spring application and proper mowing, will help the plant recover and flourish.

Lawn Issues and Tips

Deep Root Fertilization on Ornamental Trees and Shrubs

Time is running out to take advantage of deep root fertilization for overall tree and shrub health. During this late-winter or early-spring process, a probe is inserted into the feeder root zone to apply a slow-releasing fertilizer with iron. Only one application, when utilizing the proper rate, is needed to feed the plant through the entire growing season. 

Many people feel if they feed their valuable ornamentals, they will grow more vigorously. However, this is not the case with this type of fertilization. This long-chain fertilizer acts more like a nutritional vitamin for your plant than a growth stimulator, helping it recover from winter stress and build insect and disease resistance.  

Pruning Crepe Myrtles

If done correctly, February and March are great times to prune your Crepe Myrtles. The proper way is to trim only the branches that are rubbing or crossing other branches, which will improve the natural form. 

Pruning a Crepe Myrtle is meant to enhance the natural appearance and growth of the individual tree, not to produce more flowers. Many people cut off the top of the branches, leaving a stump appearance to the tree known as topping. This creates several non-productive and supportive branches on the tree, which are weak, often produce late/shorter bloom times and can diminish the overall health of the tree.

A few other ornamentals that are worth pruning now are most varieties of camelia, rose of sharron, butterfly bush and nandina.