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March News From Fairway Green

Moss Alert Moss continues to be a major topic of discussion with property owners.  This is contributed to the above-normal rainfall for the past two years along with other site conditions conducive for moss development.  Mosses generally do not kill grass.  However, it will take over areas in the lawn where turf is thin or… Read more »

Moss Alert

Moss growing in compact soil

Moss continues to be a major topic of discussion with property owners.  This is contributed to the above-normal rainfall for the past two years along with other site conditions conducive for moss development.  Mosses generally do not kill grass.  However, it will take over areas in the lawn where turf is thin or unable to flourish and grow properly.  Conditions that create moss are excessive shade, poor draining, compact soils and excessive moisture not allowing the soil to dry properly.  It is possible to have one or more of these conditions that contribute to a moss issue.  Conditions that create moss also create a poor growing environment for quality turf.

Moss is a non-vascular plant and is not controlled by regular weed controls.  There is not a reasonable chemical control option to remove moss.  Moss is controlled by eliminating the conditions that created it.

Pre-Emergent Crabgrass Control

Crabgrass in home lawn without pre-emergent

Time is running out to control summer Crabgrass.  Crabgrass will usually start to germinate in late March or early April throughout the Transitional Zone.  Germination will occur when soil temperatures are between 53 to 58 degrees and 3 to 4 inches deep.  Crabgrass germination will be seen first in bare spots with little desirable turf and in full sun.  January is the time of year when lawn care professionals will apply your first application of Pre-emergent Crabgrass control.  It is imperative that this first application is applied by early March.  The required second application of pre-emergent will usually follow in about 6 to 8 weeks.  

There are some reports of Crabgrass germination in bare full sun areas along walkways or roads. This is due to the unseasonably warm temperatures we saw in February and early March. This should not be a major issue but should be noted.

Large Patch Fungus

Large Patch in March on Zoysia

Large Patch fungus can be active on Zoysia, Bermuda, Centipede and St. Augustine in spring and fall. Fairway Green is seeing more cases of this disease every year in our area.  Large Patch Fungus is a damaging disease on Zoysia, Bermuda, Centipede and St. Augustine turf in the fall and early spring. This disease is similar to Brown Patch Fungus on Fescue.  Large Patch Fungus needs to be controlled with two applications of fungicide in the spring and fall when ground temperatures are between 50 and 70 degrees. Damage occurs before you are aware you have it and is not visible until green-up in the spring. Preventative Fungicide in the fall and early spring is the only way to control this disease.

Why Do I Have Poa Annua (Annual Bluegrass)?

Poa annua (annual Bluegrass) in Fescue along roadway

Poa annua (Annual Bluegrass) is an annual grass that is being noticed more this month due to the large amount of tan-colored seed heads the plant is producing now.  It usually stands out in late April into May.  The above normal ground temperatures we had a couple weeks ago have caused it to produce a seed head on some plants earlier this year. Poa annua is a wild annual grass and can show up anywhere. However, it is a hardy plant and can grow in poor conditions where desirable turf will not.  This is why you often see it in compact areas of the lawn.  For example; along roadways, Devil Strips (strips between sidewalk and roadways) and oddly enough along the sides of driveways where you often walk on turf to get in and out of the vehicle. These areas are often heavily compacted making it difficult for desirable turf to flourish. 

Poa annua actually germinates in the fall starting in late August through the winter; the same time you seed Fescue in this area.  This is why pre-emergent applications for Crabgrass in January, February and early spring do not control Poa annua.  Poa annua was too mature when the pre-emergent applications were applied so has no impact on control.  Poa annua will generally end its life cycle in Late May and June.  It is a prolific seeder and seed is generally viable the following year.  It typically grows in areas that have poor compact soil and where your desired turf is thin or nonexistent.  However, being that it is a common grassy weed in our area; it can be found anywhere, even in the middle of the yard.

We control about seventy percent of Poa annua in warm season (Bermuda, Zoysia and Centipede) turf by applying a product in the fall.  We utilize a split application of this product which provides good control. Again, this split application will control roughly seventy to eighty percent, not one hundred.  We have a product that can be applied in November and again in December to control about seventy-five percent of Poa annua in Fescue.  Both applications are required to get roughly seventy-five percent control.

When Will I Know If My Warm-Season Turf Received Winter/Cold Damage?

Winter injury on Zeon Zoysia; this lawn recovered by the end of summer

You will know if your Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede or St. Augustine received winter damage by end of May.  That is usually when you will know for sure. In the Transitional Zone, we do not consider a warm season turf completely out of dormancy and actively growing till the end of May. Sure, some will look green or somewhat green before then but they are not actively growing yet. Several new varieties of Bermuda and Zoysia have the characteristics of breaking dormancy earlier and staying active longer into the fall. Centipede tries to break dormancy early and that is why Centipede turf is commonly damaged due to a late frost or cold spell in spring. Ground temperatures in May are generally conducive for 24-hour plant growth and activity giving us a better picture of potential warm-season turf injury.

There is something you can do before May if you are really concerned about a part of the lawn that just isn’t looking right.  Cut out a small piece of the lawn and bring it inside in front of a window that is getting at least six hours of sunlight.  Be sure to dig at least 3” of soil with your sample.  Wait approximately two weeks and if you observe greening, the turf is probably fine. If no greening is observed by three weeks, turf is probably damaged. 

Why do my weeds look like they are not dying after treatment?

A misconception with broadleaf weed control is that the weed should turn brown after treatment within a couple of days and die.  However, more times than not, this is not the case and most weed species may take a couple of weeks to show signs of control.  In fact, signs of control may not even be seen with the plant turning brown.  More often the plant will just start to shrivel and disappear leaving a very small Skelton 

Recommended Mowing Practices

Maintaining proper mowing height and timing is key to the health of your turf! Bermuda and some Zoysia varieties require mowing every three to four days. Consistently mowing your lawn is essential to maintaining your healthy turf.

For Bermuda, mow when the lawn first turns green using a reel mower set at 3⁄4 to 1 inch or a rotary mower set as low as possible without scalping. Be sure to mow before the grass gets taller than 2 inches. Leave grass clippings on the lawn; they decompose quickly and can provide up to 25% of the lawn’s fertilizer. If grass clippings are too plentiful, collect and use them as mulch. Proper mowing heights for Bermuda is .5in-1.5”. 

For Fescue, mow often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the grass height is cut; this may be every 5 to 7 days in late spring. Leave grass clippings on the lawn where they decompose quickly and can provide up to 25% of the lawn’s fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, collect and use them as mulch. Do not bag them for trash collection. Proper mowing heights for Fescue is 2.5-3.5” and for Tall Fescue, 3.5-4”.

Proper mowing heights for Zoysia is 1.25-2.5”, Centipede 1-1.75” and St. Augustine 1.75-2.25”.

Tree and Shrub Reminder

Many ornamental trees and shrubs can experience several insects and diseases that can affect their health. Insects like Scale, Leaf Miners, Lace Bugs, Spider Mites, Aphids, Japanese Beetles, Caterpillars, Borers and Weevils are just a few common ones creating severe damage to many landscapes. Diseases like Anthracnose, Blight, Cankers, Rust and Powdery Mildew are just a few diseases that degrade the quality and vitality of the trees and shrubs in your landscape. Fairway Green offers an ornamental tree and shrub care program with just the right balance of fertilization, along with the safest insect and disease controls. The program offers six applications including deep root fertilization as well as insect and disease control which includes horticultural oils. This program aids in improving the beauty of your landscape. Give us a call today to set up a Free Estimate!

Bag Worms

“The Psychidae (Bagworm moths, also simply Bagworms or Bagmoths) are a family of the Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths).” Bagworms will nest in your trees leaving their cocoons to hatch in late spring or early Summer. Bagworms will attack a wide variety of trees types. They particularly favor evergreens, such as: juniper, arborvitae, cedar and spruce. They will eat the buds and/or chew small holes, causing defoliation and eventually causing the tree to brown and die. If only a few small trees or shrubs are infested, handpicking and destroying attached bags may provide satisfactory control. This must be completed before the eggs hatch. When small bagworms are plentiful while present and feeding, an insecticide can be used to prevent serious damage. The recommended time to apply an insecticide is in early June while the larvae are still small (less than a ½”).

Incoming Season for Grubs

Grubs can damage the lawn as much as disease. Potential for grub damage is highest in April and May. Grubs can harm any turf type. We offer an excellent product to control damage. We will begin with an application in late May or early June. Applying this product at that time will provide the best control on early and late season grubs. Application timing is important for best yearlong results.

Orchard Grass


Orchard grass is a perennial tall-growing type of grass that grows in shade or sun. Orchard grass grows rapidly, is very hearty and can grow in various types of soil conditions.” Orchard grass can also be referred to as Dactylis Glomerate. This weed can grow up to 3 ft. It is usually distinguished by it’s lighter green or blueish-green color. It can be identified by its tall membranous ligule and its folded vernation. It is difficult to manage and should be killed precisely to avoid damaging any other areas of your turf. 

Rust Disease in your Lawn


As pictured, rust disease received its name from the golden-orange grass blades that looks rusty in appearance. It can also appear as red-orange and/or rusted yellow-brown. It is routinely found in the spring and may last through to the fall. Dry weather, extreme moisture, low nitrogen and fluctuation of hot to mild temperatures can all contribute to this fungal disease. Tall fescue and Zoysia grasses are primarily more receptive to this disease. Mowing, watering, fertilizing and the last resort, applying a fungicide will aid in the process of eliminating and preventing the rust.

Coronavirus Protocols

Dear Valued Customers,

We are aware that the recent outbreak of the Coronavirus (COVID 19) is alarming and stuck on everyone’s mind. We are continuously seeking updated information and absorbing the necessary knowledge to implement the securest procedures.

We are committed to ensuring the utmost safety for our customers, our employees, their families and the communities that we service. Our customers are a key priority. 

At this time, we do encourage online interaction. Where possible, we are resolving customer issues remotely using virtual tools and technologies. Our Customer Portal can assist with any requests you may need. Where a site visit is required, we have obtained additional personal protective equipment to equip our employees and we require them to follow any additional protocols our customers have implemented.

We have assigned each Route Manager the necessary tools to enhance and encourage more frequent sanitization while en route. At our base location, we are wiping down all door handles, phones, sinks, counters, pens, etc. on a regular basis. We have increased the regularity of cleaning while magnifying the importance of such actions.

We will continue to follow the CDC guidelines and share instructions with our employees on the urgency of hand washing, allowing safe personal space, and staying home if they feel ill.  Fairway Green will accommodate any employee that requires further measures (or assistance).

In an effort to keep employees and customers safe and healthy, we are working diligently to keep our work environment clean and pathogen free as possible. 

We will constantly monitor the situation and do all we can to protect you and our employees.

In order to limit the economic impact of the virus threat, we will operate on our regular schedule, Monday – Friday from 8:00 am – 6:00 pm, until further notice.